Wednesday, September 12, 2012

It's been a year

A year in Lebanon... and what a year it's been. Rarely before have I felt like I was right where I needed to be, yet felt so constantly challenged in my assumptions, for the best.

I have learned so much in this past year, what better way once again to celebrate an anniversary than by a list?

I am thankful that...

-I am no longer that person who can only speak classical Arabic. I will never forget my mortification upon learning that "Ahlan w Sahlan" does not mean "hello" in Lebanese, and that I had spent weeks cheerfully greeting puzzled shop owners with "welcome!" in their own stores.

-I have met some of the most wonderful, generous and funny people of my life here. I keep being blown away by how caring Lebanese people can be, especially coming from the Paris area where, let's say it, hospitality is not our strong suit.

-Beirut has done its best to introduce me to previously unexplored ladyness, but not succeeded at turning me into an actual lady. I have a short dress I've worn perhaps three times; I wear nail polish semi-regularly, despite getting a lot of crap for it being perpetually chipped; but I still have not developed my high-heel wearing skills, and I'm totally fine with that.

-I have survived a couple of "what the hell am I doing here?" slumps throughout the year without it affecting my overall feelings for Lebanon.

-I have learned how fragile peace can be, how trouble often brews right under the surface, but also how quickly storms can dissipate. I am thankful to have learned to grin and bear it, this studied nonchalance wrapped up in pessimistic abandonment that helps us get through these trying moments, while still retaining an ardent belief that the peaceful path is possible and necessary.

-I am less thankful, however, to have learned the hard way that upon turning 25, my body's ability to handle Beiruti nights out has quickly fallen into shambles.

By chance or by subconcious instinct, I booked my trip back to France so that I would come back to Lebanon exactly one year after I first set foot in the country. Not to get all sentimental on you guys, but this has been an amazing journey so far, one that I couldn't have anticipated when I stepped into my first Arabic class six years ago.

So here's to at least one more year.

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